Estonia

In the early morning hours of Sunday the 11th of October, we made our way to Riga Central Bus Station. The day before we had booked tickets on a Eurolines bus to Tallinn and we didn't want to miss it.

When we arrived we thought we had gone back in time. Most of the busses looked like they hadn't had a tune up since 1978 - and some sounded like it too!


The Soviet-era busses at the Riga Coach Terminal

We were relieved when our modern Eurolines coaster pulled up and were soon fast asleep as we sped through the Latvian countryside towards Estonia.

Since recently both signing up as member countries to the Shengen Agreement, Latvia and Estonia have no border countrol between each other.


The Estonian border

Estonia's history is almost identical to that of Latvia. From about 1227, Estonia has been passed between Danish, German, Swedish and Russian rule. In 1918, Estonia declared its independence from Russia only to be swallowed up by the Soviet Union again in World War II. Much like its neighbours to the south, Nazi Germany took over for a few years only to be replaced again by the Soviet Union.

Estonia regained its freedom with the fall of the Soviet Union on 20 August 1991 and since then has become one of the fastest-growing economies on earth, looking towards Scandinavia instead of Moscow, throwing embracing English and distancing itself from Russian.

Estonians are finnic people, closely related to the Finns. The Finnish and Estonian languages share many similarities and are almost (but not quite) mutually intellegible.


Pärnu

Our first Estonian stop was Pärnu. Pärnu is the 4th-largest city in Estonia and was a sleepy little town which had a remarkable mix of ugly Soviet-style buildings and newer Scandinavian-style houses and shopping centres.



These odd-looking wooden houses can be found all throughout Estonia and Latvia


Scenes of Pärnu


Tallinn

Approximately 1.3 million people live in Estonia. Almost a third of the population of the whole country live in Tallinn, Estonia's amazing little capital.

We had heard that Tallinn was beautiful but quite simply, it was amazing! Tallinn is far more developed than Riga and has one of the most well-preserved Old Towns in Europe - literally like a real-life Disneyland!



The Tallinn tram we caught from the bus depot to the Old Town


When you walk into the Old Town, you could well be travelling back in time. It's a wonder that this medieval museum has survived hundreds of years of war, invasion and even Soviet occupation! Cobblestone streets, churches, castles, a brilliant view, great nightlife - it has it all.


Entrance to the Old Town


Let's go back in time!


The Three Sisters


St Olav's Church was once the tallest building in the world (between 1549 and 1625). Named after King Olaf of Norway, it was built in the 1200s and was the centre of Tallinn's then thriving Scandinavian community. And yes, in case you were wondering, they made it taller in 1549.


Beautiful Old Town streets


The Old Town square


Candice in the square. If you stand in a certain spot, you can see all the tallest towers in the Old town from the one place.

Needless to say, tourism is booming in Tallinn these days. What is still touted as a cheaper alternative to Scandinavia, is now almost just as expensive. In a bid to adopt the Euro by 2010, prices have almost doubled within the space of only a couple of years.


The medieval-themed restaurant in Tallinn. Actually very cool.


Old and new: McDonalds at Viru gate


Get some former Soviet Maccas in me!


Viru Gate


St Catherine's Passage


Pigs in Tallinn!


The Tallinn Old town boasts at least 7 church towers (maybe more, we might have missed some!)


Part of the castle on Toompea Hill


Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral


The Danish King's Garden, where according to legend the Danish flag fell from the sky in battle signalling victory for the Danes


I couldn't resist it


Estonia is truly moving on from its colonial past and its unwanted incorporation into the USSR. These days you might be forgiven for thinking it is part of Scandinavia - because that is certainly the direction it's moving in. The similarity between the Estonian and Finnish languages, its proximity to Sweden and Finland and the constant fear that Russia will one day breach its borders only serves to hasten this trend. Not a single bank is Estonian-owned, Tallinn is served almost exclusively by Swedish banks.

The contrast between Old Tallinn and New Tallinn is striking. From the lookout on Toompea Hill, you can see skyscrapers among the steeples. Tallinn is apparently the most "wired" city on earth with wireless broadband available virtually everywhere. It's also the birthplace of Skype.


An amazing blend of Old and New


The Old Town, from Toompea lookout

The situation with ethnic Russians in Estonia is almost the same as in Latvia, if not worse. There is very little intermingling between Russians and Estonians, despite Russians making up 30% of the population. The tables have turned on the Russians who are now the lower class, many of whom are now stateless as they were not granted Estonian citizenship in 1991. While there are many exceptions where people are mingling (especially among the younger people in the cities), it's still a sensitive topic.



"Estonia", 1994

After living in Sweden for several months, we were overjoyed that we could finally afford to watch a movie at the cinemas. We went to the aptly named "Coca Cola Plaza" to watch Star Wars: Clone Wars.


Coca Cola Plaza

Leaving the walls of the Old Town, the 21st century suddenly hits you.


The Tallinn City Centre


Tallinn has been refered to as "the Silicon Valley of the Baltic"


This Soviet-era building is now part of chic Tallinn

We were extremely fortunate to be able to catch up with our Estonian friends we had made while in Riga. On our last night in town we met up with Tina, Kristiine and Nele who took us to one of Tallinn's best haunts, the Hell Hunt. James, one of our friendly hostel mates from England also came along.


I (Nat) trying some Estonian Beer

Despite it's gory sounding name, "Hell Hunt" actually means "gentle wolf".


At the Hell Hunt with James Brown and the Estonian crew. Yes, that really is his name.

An uncanny thing happened that night. We spotted a Portugese lad named Carlos who is the splitting image of our friend Dave Powys back home. We just had to go and talk to this bloke. We ended up making friends with him, taking photos and he even shouted us all a drink at a nearby pub!


Candice, "Dave" and I

We ended our trip to Estonia feeling tired but definitely better for it.


Tallinn Airport, the closest airport we've ever seen to a road - ever!

For more photos of our time in Estonia, visit http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=59360&l=bb5f1&id=681501850

Latvia

On the 9th of October we found ourselves off on yet another trip outside Sweden, this time to the Baltic countries. Our first stop was Riga, the capital of lovely little Latvia.

Latvia may not spring to mind immediately when somebody mentions Northern Europe, but this little post-Soviet gem is touting itself as the "Gateway to the North" these days.

Here's a little bit of background. Latvia's history over the last 1000 years has seen it change hands several times between larger powers - (what is now) Germany, Poland, Sweden and Russia. After World War 1, the country was devastated and calls for self-determination lead to a proclamation of independence in 1918 from Russia. In 1939, with the outbreak of WWII immenent, the USSR bullied Latvia into accepting a "mutual acceptance" pact which effectively placed them under the control of Moscow. That was the end of Latvian independence (apart from a brief stint of 2-3 years under Nazi German rule) until 1991 with the fall of the Soviet Union.

We arrived at night and with the help of a few Latvian phrases I (Nat) had memorised, we made our way from the airport to the centre of Riga.


Our hostel, The Arganaut in the Old Town of Riga

We couldn't believe we were actually in part of the former USSR! It was thrilling to discover yet another part of our world - the first time we had actually been to a former Eastern Block country (Berlin doesn't count).

Riga is a beautiful city and boasts a stunning "Old Town" amidst a bustling modern day metropolis struggling to shrug off its Soviet past. The Latvian economy is booming, driving prices up. Despite this, it was still a whole lot cheaper than Scandinavia. For some reason though, the Latvian Lat is higher in value than the Pound Stirling!


The Old Town streets are nicely preserved



Riga Cathedral, the largest church in the Baltics


House of the Blackheads


Latvians are closely related to the Lithuanians to the south and speak a completely different language to Russian. Today, the Latvians have turned the tables on the Russian language, despite the fact that almost 30% of the population of 2.3 million is still Russian. Latvian is taught in schools and is the language of everyday usage. English is now the preferred second language which means Russians who refuse to learn Latvian are at a serious disadvantage when it comes to education and employment.

Instead of Russian, English is now becoming the lingua franca between the Latvia and other Baltic countries (especially Estonia).


A tram in Riga over the river


Candice and friends


The National Opera House

One of Riga's most important landmarks is the Freedom Monument. Built after the Latvian War of Independence in 1918, it somehow survived Soviet plans to demolish it during the Cold War. Latvians would risk inprisonment by placing flowers at the foot of the monument. Today it is guarded by soldiers at all times as it is an extremely important national icon.


The Freedom Monument


Common kids, play soccer in the street in front of traffic!


Riga Castle, where the president resides


An avenue near Riga Castle


Latvian Maccas - after Norweigan prices, this cost a pittance!




We really felt that we were in Eastern Europe. The bustling Riga markets were a short walk away from our hostel and was dominated by ethnic Russian traders - even the signs were occasionally only in Russian and Latvian was not always understood.


The Riga Markets - a must-see

The markets are massive and are both outdoors and inside hangar-like buildings. Staffed mainly by ethnic Russian women, the food is cheap, the service is bad and chopped-up animals are everywhere. Ahh, a true market.


This "hangar" only sold meat


A Latvian market pig

What can we say? Australians seem to be taking over the world, one hostel at a time. The Arganaut was no exception - it was almost like being home again. Apart from a smattering of Estonians, every second person we met was from Australia! We made some great Estonian friends too - who gave us great insight into our next travel destination, Estonia!


Candice checks out some Latvian brew!


Some of the hostel gang




Venturing outside of the Old Town, Riga still bears the hallmarks of a city of the Soviet Union.


A trolley bus. Half-tram, half-bus, this Soviet-era monster stalks the streets of Riga


Russian Orthodox church in Riga


View of Riga on a hazy day


Soviet-era construction is still evident today around the city



We decided to randomly take a traim out into the burbs...


The Riga Zoo


We discovered an amazing park around the zoo, since we couldn't actually be bothered paying to get in.


A bed of Autumn leaves


Us in the Latvian woods


Autumn was in full swing around us


Me (Nat) playing cricket with a stick and an acorn

Back in the Old Town, there was plenty more to see and do.


Russian dumplings!


Beautiful Old Town streets


The Swedish Gate, dating back to the Swedish occupancy of Latvia hundreds of years ago


Candice with Neli and Tina from Estonia


Latvians are fiercely proud of their country and its independence and relations with Russia are at a low. Latvia has joined the European Union, NATO and is hurriedly trying to adopt the Euro as its currency.


We witnessed the sound check for a Latvian cultural celebration featuring aging popstars and a massive choir


A defaced billboard - tensions are still high between Latvia and Russia

After a good night, we were introduced by some Finnish friends to Hesburger, the fast-food of Finland which can be found all over the Baltic countries.


Hesburger, Finland's gift to Latvia


For more photos of our time in Riga, visit http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=59349&l=12fba&id=681501850