Latvia

On the 9th of October we found ourselves off on yet another trip outside Sweden, this time to the Baltic countries. Our first stop was Riga, the capital of lovely little Latvia.

Latvia may not spring to mind immediately when somebody mentions Northern Europe, but this little post-Soviet gem is touting itself as the "Gateway to the North" these days.

Here's a little bit of background. Latvia's history over the last 1000 years has seen it change hands several times between larger powers - (what is now) Germany, Poland, Sweden and Russia. After World War 1, the country was devastated and calls for self-determination lead to a proclamation of independence in 1918 from Russia. In 1939, with the outbreak of WWII immenent, the USSR bullied Latvia into accepting a "mutual acceptance" pact which effectively placed them under the control of Moscow. That was the end of Latvian independence (apart from a brief stint of 2-3 years under Nazi German rule) until 1991 with the fall of the Soviet Union.

We arrived at night and with the help of a few Latvian phrases I (Nat) had memorised, we made our way from the airport to the centre of Riga.


Our hostel, The Arganaut in the Old Town of Riga

We couldn't believe we were actually in part of the former USSR! It was thrilling to discover yet another part of our world - the first time we had actually been to a former Eastern Block country (Berlin doesn't count).

Riga is a beautiful city and boasts a stunning "Old Town" amidst a bustling modern day metropolis struggling to shrug off its Soviet past. The Latvian economy is booming, driving prices up. Despite this, it was still a whole lot cheaper than Scandinavia. For some reason though, the Latvian Lat is higher in value than the Pound Stirling!


The Old Town streets are nicely preserved



Riga Cathedral, the largest church in the Baltics


House of the Blackheads


Latvians are closely related to the Lithuanians to the south and speak a completely different language to Russian. Today, the Latvians have turned the tables on the Russian language, despite the fact that almost 30% of the population of 2.3 million is still Russian. Latvian is taught in schools and is the language of everyday usage. English is now the preferred second language which means Russians who refuse to learn Latvian are at a serious disadvantage when it comes to education and employment.

Instead of Russian, English is now becoming the lingua franca between the Latvia and other Baltic countries (especially Estonia).


A tram in Riga over the river


Candice and friends


The National Opera House

One of Riga's most important landmarks is the Freedom Monument. Built after the Latvian War of Independence in 1918, it somehow survived Soviet plans to demolish it during the Cold War. Latvians would risk inprisonment by placing flowers at the foot of the monument. Today it is guarded by soldiers at all times as it is an extremely important national icon.


The Freedom Monument


Common kids, play soccer in the street in front of traffic!


Riga Castle, where the president resides


An avenue near Riga Castle


Latvian Maccas - after Norweigan prices, this cost a pittance!




We really felt that we were in Eastern Europe. The bustling Riga markets were a short walk away from our hostel and was dominated by ethnic Russian traders - even the signs were occasionally only in Russian and Latvian was not always understood.


The Riga Markets - a must-see

The markets are massive and are both outdoors and inside hangar-like buildings. Staffed mainly by ethnic Russian women, the food is cheap, the service is bad and chopped-up animals are everywhere. Ahh, a true market.


This "hangar" only sold meat


A Latvian market pig

What can we say? Australians seem to be taking over the world, one hostel at a time. The Arganaut was no exception - it was almost like being home again. Apart from a smattering of Estonians, every second person we met was from Australia! We made some great Estonian friends too - who gave us great insight into our next travel destination, Estonia!


Candice checks out some Latvian brew!


Some of the hostel gang




Venturing outside of the Old Town, Riga still bears the hallmarks of a city of the Soviet Union.


A trolley bus. Half-tram, half-bus, this Soviet-era monster stalks the streets of Riga


Russian Orthodox church in Riga


View of Riga on a hazy day


Soviet-era construction is still evident today around the city



We decided to randomly take a traim out into the burbs...


The Riga Zoo


We discovered an amazing park around the zoo, since we couldn't actually be bothered paying to get in.


A bed of Autumn leaves


Us in the Latvian woods


Autumn was in full swing around us


Me (Nat) playing cricket with a stick and an acorn

Back in the Old Town, there was plenty more to see and do.


Russian dumplings!


Beautiful Old Town streets


The Swedish Gate, dating back to the Swedish occupancy of Latvia hundreds of years ago


Candice with Neli and Tina from Estonia


Latvians are fiercely proud of their country and its independence and relations with Russia are at a low. Latvia has joined the European Union, NATO and is hurriedly trying to adopt the Euro as its currency.


We witnessed the sound check for a Latvian cultural celebration featuring aging popstars and a massive choir


A defaced billboard - tensions are still high between Latvia and Russia

After a good night, we were introduced by some Finnish friends to Hesburger, the fast-food of Finland which can be found all over the Baltic countries.


Hesburger, Finland's gift to Latvia


For more photos of our time in Riga, visit http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=59349&l=12fba&id=681501850